Owner and Chef of En Vedette, Tokyo & Les vergers Boiron Brand Ambassador
Daisuke Mori, owner and Chef of En Vedette in Tokyo, is one of Japan’s most highly respected pastry chefs. Having made his mark at the Grand Hyatt Hotel in Tokyo for many years, he came to France to hone his skills, working among others with Laurent Duchene pastry shop in Paris, and was a leading contender or champion of several pastry competitions. Returning to Japan, he opened his pastry shop, which has established itself as must-go-to boutique in Tokyo. His success is based on a subtle mix of French technique and Japanese taste.
“In France, chefs are tending these days to take classics and reinterpret them, often daring unheard of combinations. In Japan, we tend to respect the original recipe.”
The other difference in approach, for Daisuke, is that French chefs like to create strong and contrasting combinations, while Japanese chefs look for harmony. He uses the example of the use of a fruit, such as raspberry, and chocolate. “In France, each taste stands out on its own, is recognizable and yet, there is a balance. To accentuate this strong array of tastes, French pastry makers often use spices and alcohol. To emerge in a complex mix of ingredients, the fruit has to have character, be distinctive and express the essence of the fruit.”
At first, Daisuke had to compromise to be in line with Japanese tastes and textures, but now their palates have evolved and he is able to free himself of constraints. This also allows him to reintegrate classical Japanese ingredients, such as Yuzu and Matcha tea. His signature pastries, Kabuku-Hen or Rin are perfect examples of using daring combinations and integrating Japanese classics. Daisuke feels he has come full circle, with his pastries being appreciated by foreigners for their exoticism and Japanese clients for their new twist on familiar tastes.
He is also a technical advisor for the Japanese Association of Pastry, along with his colleague (also a Les vergers Boiron Ambassador) Shigeo Hirai.