When vegetables gatecrash the pastry-shop
For the great confectioners carrots, tomatoes, and even onions have become star ingredients. Decryption.
If you see a confectioner in working clothes doing his shopping in a greengrocer's, his basket full of leeks, radishes, and pumpkins, do not be surprised. Patisseries made from vegetables â€“ itâ€™s the latest trend. For you, Les vergers Boiron have investigated.
The trend â€“ itâ€™s the trend!
After having literally melted over New York, where the gourmets have lately been treating themselves to fennel cheesecake, parsnip ice-cream, or again to apple and chard pie, the phenomenonâ€™s now reached French confectioners. Of course, certain great chefs, such as Pierre Gagnaire, Alain Passard, or Philippe Conticini (La PÃ¢tisserie des RÃªves), have long been up to these tricks. But French confectioning has evidently decided to push its exploration of vegetables in desserts even further. In what forms? Practically all of them! As a proof, with the raspberry-radish sorbet of Thierry Bridron, head of the Valrhona school at Versailles, the fennel, celery, turnip, capsicum, and carrot sugared vegetables pastries of the star chocolate confectioner Jacques Genin, and the latest creations of the Meilleur Ouvrier de France (Best Worker in France), Nicolas Cloiseau, head of the prestigious Maison du Chocolat: a hazelnut praline with cep mushrooms, caramelised onion ganaches or with Red pepper - astonishing and astounding desserts that are great hits with clients only demanding to be surprised.
Because vegetables have great advantages that fruits lack
â€œUsing vegetables in a sugared version first of all allows you to refine and broaden the range of flavours availableâ€, Alban Rousseau explains, a culinary expert, co-founder of the firm rousseaulesellierÂ®. â€œNext, using vegetables in desserts means reducing the sugar and fat â€“ which fits in perfectly with the health trends of today.â€ Does this mean that every marriage possible is legitimate? Everythingâ€™s possible, but it doesnâ€™t mean anything goes!â€ Alban Rousseau continues. â€œA vegetable may be used in a dessert if it provides balance, acidity, and different texture.â€ Here are three ideas for sugar-and-salt associations created with vegetables for desserts bound to delight customers:
â— The sweet potatoes candied with honey and coconut emulsion.
â— The beetroot almond sponge finger and roasted pistachios.
Because itâ€™s so easy to use vegetables
The trouble with vegetables is they need so much work for relatively thankless chores: washing the vegetables, peeling them, cutting themâ€¦ Without mentioning the important losses owing to working with a product that is fresh and so extremely perishable. â€œThatâ€™s why I advise my clients to favour the vegetable purÃ©es, especially those of Vergers Boiron who provide a fine range that perfectly respect the taste of fresh vegetables while preserving their organoleptic propertiesâ€. Vegetables from the best soils lifted when ripe with a flavour, a colour, and a texture that are constant and guaranteed thanks to the exclusive procedures developed by the Les vergers Boiron R&D team.